Friendly & knowledgeable climbing guides for New River Gorge. The New River Gorge, WV rock climbing is composed of three river gorges - New, Gauley, and Meadow. Be safe when climbing in the park. Encircling the New River Gorge National River area is … John Denver got it right. "The New" has become one of the most popular climbing areas in the country. The cliffs at New River Gorge are made up of hard sandstone and range from 30 to 120 feet (37 m) in height. Respect all gate, fences, and no trespassing signs. New River Climbing School: Specializing in instruction for beginners through advanced climbers, they offer plenty of options for families looking for a weekend of climbing. Please seek qualified instruction before venturing onto the cliffs. The adventure stories you want in your inbox. New River Gorge… > Bubba City > 01. Lower Meadow: You’ll find more trad lines here along with some classic test pieces. Impromptu New River Gorge Climbing Trip. Primitive camping is allowed on park property. While climbing can take place any time of year, the best months are usually late April to mid-June, and mid-September to late October. You’ll find over 3,000 established routes to discover in the area, attracting rock climbers from all over the world. TWENTY YEARS AND GOING STRONG! If Clint Eastwood were an East Coast climbing cowboy, the New River Gorge would be his home. Showers Routes are apt to change stylistically as you ascend them, adding another variable to the puzzle. TRIP PLANNING. Area 51 is easier to access and has long routes. “It could start with the route names,” climber Ronnie Black, a Black climber in Vermont who has climbed in the New River Gorge for years, told the Zoom assembly. If you’re a big fan of whitewater rafting or climbing, you’re probably already familiar with the New. To be there for a weekend or a summer it’s all the same because when you’re there, nothing else matters, it’s a timeless place. The rock here is harder than granite (though no match for Mr. Eastwood, of course). They offer customized climbing instruction, from learning to place your first nut and anchor building, to yoga retreats, and mental training. The New River Gorge offers up some of the best climbing in the world. He’s keen on trad and bouldering, and sport as well. Over one million people visit New River Gorge each year, thousands of whom are climbers. Opossum Creek Retreat offers rustic decadence with decked out cabins in the heart of the park. The American Alpine Club’s Craggin’ Classic series takes place each September and combines best in class climbing with Southern hospitality. The last few years have seen an uptick in bouldering locally, in part because of the release of the New River Gorge Bouldering guidebook, which features over 1,000 problems. Kaymoor is a great summer destination featuring shade, steep routes, and big holds, though it stays wet for at least a day after rain. Briefly, the National Park Service mission is to protect park resources for future generations, while providing opportunities to enjoy these resources at present. Always acknowledge the landowners' rights. Endless Wall can keep you occupied for a lifetime, as each jump in climbing ability unlocks dozens of new classics to project. It resides on a 40-acre parcel and is within walking distance of popular crags, including Junkyard. What’s everyone else coming for? TEEN ROCK CAMP. Please try again, or contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org and we’ll resolve the problem. He’d eat the bullet-hard Nuttall with Nutella for breakfast, savor the thrill of high first clips, rejoice in brain-and-body-busting maneuvers, and wash it all down with pure-line bouldering alongside one of the oldest rivers in North America. Great service overall! Do not trespass on private property. Within the park are over 1,400 established rock climbs. Photos by Pablo Durana - The "New" is one of the premier climbing destinations on the east coast with thousands of good sandstone pitches from steep sport climbs to splitter crack routes. The state is known colloquially as “Wet Virginia,” so even a week-long trip in the shoulder seasons has the possibility of getting hosed. The local climbers I’ve spoken with say that no one they know has ever been fined but it’s worth noting the area’s regulations. Shown here are some photos of the steep classics like Apollo Reed, The Pod, Tobacco Road and more at the Summersville Lake area. All their head instructors are AMGA certified rock instructors or single-pitch instructors. Then there’s Meadow Top, which has the region’s highest concentration of moderates, and the Sunshine Boulders, picturesquely situated under the longest single-span arch bridge in the U.S. A recent study on the economic impact of rock climbing estimated that climbers contribute more than $12 million in direct spending to the area, including supporting 168 jobs and $6.3 million in wages. We maintain a low camper to guide ratio of 4 to 1 to maximize experiential learning time on the rock. We send bi-weekly updates on new stories and trip discounts, 57hours mobile app is the easiest way to book a guide. But rain means lush surroundings precipitating verdant greenery… and bugs, so be prepared. Our guide Matt was wonderful. The Fastest Way to Fix a Backclip. Thank you for subscribing to our newsletter. This task is obviously a difficult one, balancing resource protection and visitor use. Helpful. There are over 1,400 established rock climbing routes in the gorge, running the gamut of formations from Utah-style splitter cracks to tricky arêtes. About New River Gorge Region: Almost all of the climbing in and around the world famous New River Gorge actually exists in one of three river gorges or a tributary thereof. Summer temps can reach into the 90s, turning the humid air into thick molasses. The New River Gorge is known as the best East Coast climbing destination for a reason: There are more than 1,500 established climbing routes in the area. Sandstonia. Also in this gallery are a few routes … A variety of skills and techniques are required to ensure a safe climbing experience. Leave historical and natural objects undisturbed for the next visitor. “Almost Heaven, West Virginia.” The New River Gorge has it all — trad, sport, bouldering, and enough routes to keep you climbing for a lifetime (more than 3000, to be exact). You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the link in our emails. Their guides are PCGI (Professional Climbing Guides Institute) certified. Besides the spectacular sandstone, stunning settings, and sheer number of routes (3000 + trad and sport routes from 5.6 to 5.14d), one of the factors that makes the New River Gorge the premier climbing destination in the East is the possibility of year-round climbing. New River Gorge National Park and Preserve has become one of the most popular rock climbing areas in the country. NEW RIVER MOUNTAIN GUIDES. Jonathan Siegrist climbing the crux boulder problem that follows a long section of 5.14. Arrowhead Bike Farm is a new addition to the mix that offers easy access to Kaymoor. Glen Jean, WV They are usually open from the second week of March to about the first of December. Of course, bouldering is also an option! Annual rainfall is about 50 inches, which is approaching temperate rainforest levels. The 3-day fest includes live music, clinics taught by pro athletes, conservation efforts, a pig roast, beer and whiskey, and a glow stick dance party. Camping As always, abide by Leave No Trace ethics. Mountain Project's determination of the most popular, highly-rated routes. Fern Buttress, a popular climbing spot on the north rim of the New River Gorge near the NRG Bridge, is home to some of the more than 1600 established climbing routes in the gorge. Luckily, the New River Alliance of Climbers (NRAC) has done an excellent job of advocating for access over the years. The area splits between crags upstream and downstream from the Highway 19 bridge. The Sunkist Wall has moderate lines. Thanks Matt! With that said, it’s hard to beat the variety of fresh local craft beer on tap. Popular areas include classic riverside spots such as Hawks Nest Dam and Cotton Bottom, as well as the good-for-a-rainy-day Junkyard cave. COURSES. Even though the New River Gorge (combined with the nearby crags of Summersville Lake, Meadow River and Gauley River) can be seen as one of the biggest and best climbing areas of the US it is internationally less known and generally less visited than the Red river Gorge that is just a day drive away. 25846. Sandstonia. Do not trespass, as tensions have ebbed and flowed. Classic Climbs for The New River Gorge. Really friendly and relaxed. New River Gorge… > Bubba City > 01. This 5-day overnight camp is geared towards introducing teens to outdoor rock climbing while reinforcing teamwork and cooperation. New River Gorge Outdoor and Climbing Gear. While DWS (deep-water soloing) is tempting, cliff jumping and diving from six feet or above the water is prohibited. Development of this platform was partially funded by EU. As you can imagine, this tends to be the most trafficked area during hot weather, though it also makes for a winter destination as its south-facing rocks tend to soak up the sun. Our two popular sites for this trip are the Bridge Buttress with a view of the New River Gorge Bridge and Beauty Mountain with a view of the New River rapids. The Greater NRG consists of three concentrated climbing sectors: The New River Gorge National River, the Meadow River, and Summersville Lake (Gauley River). Built in 1974, the New River Gorge Bridge spans over 3,000 feet and connects the east and west banks of the river. Our rock climbing instruction school is the premier guide service in the New River Gorge. Second Buttress. There are the NRG itself, the Meadow River Gorge and the Gauley River Gorge, which includes Summersville Lake. There are plenty of options, but here’s just a few: The American Alpine Club campground has become the climber epicenter. Blue Ridge Mountain Guides: An American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) Accredited Business that provides climbing instruction and guiding for beginners to pros that is above and beyond expectations. The cliffs at New River Gorge are made up of a very hard sandstone, and range from 30 to 120 feet in height. 5-Days, All inclusive. Compared to Endless Wall, the climbing here tends to be more featured with pockets, huecos, jugs, and edges. Water Stone Outdoors has been selling quality outdoor gear in Fayetteville, West Virginia 362 days a year for over 20 years. Lots of 5.12 and 5.13 steep sport routes to … the better-known sport climbing mecca four hours west, “Juan Pablo Tellez, Reckless Abandon 12b, The Coliseum – Summersville Lake, WV, Symon Ardila, Lactic Acid Bath 12.d, The Hole, New River Gorge, WV, imprisonment for not more than six months, A recent study on the economic impact of rock climbing. The climbing season at New River extends from April through November. Please do what you can, as a climber, to limit your impact on New River Gorge and preserve it for future generations. He found some awesome climbs for us despite the weather and generally made sure we had a great time. While we are open for business, we want to ensure that everyone has an amazing and safe experience in our region. If you want to get into outdoor climbing as a relative beginner, if you want to improve your already strong skills, or if you just want to explore lots of routes with experts who know the New River Gorge area extremely well, you should definitely choose the New River Climbing School. The New River Gorge CVB and the surrounding areas are all focused on the health and well-being of those in our area. New River Mountain Guides: Climber owned and operated since 1994, and run in conjunction with Water Stone Outdoors. Fishing is one of the most popular activities on the New River. Got more time? Erosion takes much longer than usual because the rock is so hard; the gorge is still only 900ft deep despite its age. A guidebook is an essential tool for locating climbs, and local climbing shops can offer information and specific recommendations. More Info. You’ll have the opportunity to sample some of the world-famous routes that make the New River Gorge synonymous with world-class rock climbing. A grassroots rock climbing advocacy and anchor-replacement organization in and around WV's New River Gorge. It’s catered more to mountain bikers, featuring an on-site bike rental & gear shop and Biergarten (beer garden). Subscribe to our newsletter to receive a discount and updates on 57hours offers, webinars, and reviews. The majority of routes are 5.9 and harder, and most sport routes fall in the 5.10 - 5.12 range. HOME. If you’re around in October, stop by for Bridge Day, the world’s largest BASE jumping event. There are numerous markets and eating establishments in nearby towns.establishments in nearby towns. Red Rock, NV. New River Gorge Climbing. Just one caveat (and a note to the newbies): The New is best suited for the hard-charging climber who likes a challenge. A post shared by New River Gorge National River (@newrivernps) The change will go into effect in early 2021, a few weeks into President elect Joe Biden’s tenure. The aptly named Summersville Lake offers a respite from the heat, as it can be breezy, shady, and of course, comes with plenty of swimming. You’ve got to ask yourself one question: Do you feel lucky? The New River Gorge has become a major rock-climbing destination. The cliffs at New River Gorge are made up of a very hard sandstone, and range from 30 to 120 feet in height. At Meadow River Gorge, you are likely to encounter private property en route to the crags. It’s composed of Nuttall sandstone that is 98% quartz and gives the sensation of climbing on classic granitic igneous if it were embedded with infinite sand-sized crystals. Film from 1997 showcasing some of the best rock climbs in the New River Gorge at the time. Europe, Mexico. Dare I say? The New River Gorge and surrounding areas have lots of steep rock so there is still dry rock out there in a storm to climb. You won’t find a better guide than Grant Price, the head guide for Blue Ridge Mountain Guides. Get in-depth reviews and expert advice to help you start planning your next big outdoor adventure. That’s high praise for a discipline that currently takes a backseat in the area. Please note that climbers make a significant contribution to the local economy! The New is a better option for more advanced and all-around climbers than the Red River Gorge, the better-known sport climbing mecca four hours west. Private Property It boasts four-star sport and trad lines and has one of the highest concentrations of boulders in the Mid-Atlantic, not to mention water-side cliffs that are reminiscent of Thailand. Well, do ya, punk? Parking and Security The New River Gorge is composed of three river gorges: New, Gauley, and Meadow. Southside Crags: This is the area on the left side of the river. Other activities include riding the Gravity Zipline, a 1.5-mile tour 200 feet above the ground or a down-to-earth walk along the iconic New River Gorge Bridge. Each area is, at most, a half-hour drive from Fayetteville, WV, and everything is located north of town along Highway 19. MULTI-PITCH CLIMBING. What can begin as a bouldery tiered-roof (my favorite!) There are many areas of private property within the New River Gorge, including some within the park boundary. Likewise, be sure to stop by Fayetteville, a charming post-industrial town that’s remade itself into an outdoor haven. While perched at the anchor, you might take note of the world-class whitewater rapids below, or you may encounter mountain bikers bombing down the trails on your approach. Most of the routes in the gorge favor the advanced and expert climber. Showers can be purchased at many of the private campgrounds in the area. Set upon the backdrop of the New River Gorge, you are sure to get amazing views as you climb up rocks and rappel down. The New River Gorge — or NRG, as it’s commonly known — offers diverse climbing and over 3,000 established routes total, which is why it’s one of the best places to rock climb in the USA. Read the summary of the Climbing Community Meeting held on October 27, 2018. Most of the routes in the gorge favor the advanced and expert climber. Sign up for the 57hours newsletter and join our growing community of outdoor adventurers. There are many private campgrounds located within easy driving distance from the climbing areas. There’s a preponderance of grades from 5.8 to 5.13, with some lines up to 100 feet long, and others severely overhung. See the camping page for more information. In case of emergency, call 911. The gorge reaches 1,600 feet at its maximum depth, or about ⅓ the size of the Grand Canyon. New River Gorge is the first National Park in the great state of West Virginia. The Greatest Show area is the cream of the crop and includes Lynn Hill’s Greatest Show On Earth (5.13a trad) and perhaps the first 5.14a in the East, Scott Franklin’s Mango Tango. Camping options include a private site, complete with a 10’x10′ wooden tent platform, and a communal area. COVID-19 Update from New River Gorge CVB . Here is a select list of crags with dry rock in the rain. Between these areas, there are thousands of routes! Water is available at Canyon Rim Visitor Center. If you like to mix brains and brawn in your climbing, the technical nature of the routes will tickle your cerebral proclivities. Camping is prohibited within 100 feet of parking areas, water sources, historic sites, or the top rim of the cliffs. Classic climbs begin at 5.10+ for trad and 5.11+ for sport. Between the three major river gorges- the New, the Gauley/Summersville, and the Meadow- there are over 3,000 established routes on 60+ miles of cliffline, as well as hundreds of established boulder problems. Nuttal itself is erosion-resistant and contributes to the V-shape of the gorge, as well as the steep cliffs. Picture a lush green landscape with miles and miles of picturesque cliffs. I went into Labor Day Weekend 2020 thinking would enjoy low key climbs at the gym on Saturday, bike rides on Sunday, kite boarding lessons on Monday. Hide or remove all valuables while climbing, and lock vehicles. More Info. With this large number of visitors, park issues develop that can only be solved through everyone's cooperation. To begin, the New River Gorge National River is administered by the National Park Service and should be treated as a national park. Please try again or contact us at email@example.com and we’ll resolve the problem. Always change clothes out of view. Nearly all climbs are single-pitch and range from 30 to 150 feet in height. Stay up-to-date with the latest outdoor adventure stories and get exclusive offers delivered straight to your inbox. Climbing has inherent risks and hazards, and is a potentially dangerous activity. The rock is very featured, and an abundance of crack and face routes are available. For example, the aptly named Endless Wall is three miles of unbroken cliff-line. Gym rats will find these chess matches difficult to muscle through, as I found out (guilty as charged!). Grant has been climbing for over 12 years and teaching in the outdoor industry for a decade. Visit the ghost town of Nuttallburg, a former bustling mining community from the turn of the 19th century. The use of motorized drills is by permit only. Grab your friends, hit the crag, and settle into the post-send glow with a soak in the hot tub. Share. The NRG is a National River and one of the oldest in the world. It could help river advocates fight for cleaner water running through the gorge and should ensure access to the world-class climbing inside the new park boundaries for generations to come. It sits on the southeast corner of the state. It may seem like semantics, but climbers must stay within the legal limits or risk personal injury, steep fines (up to $5,000), and/or imprisonment for not more than six months. Food and Water You can read more of his work at aarongerry.com, What else should we know before connecting you with the guide? Upper Meadow: Known mainly for sport climbing. New River Gorge, West Virginia. The area is less developed overall, often requiring longer hikes in. Box 246, 104 Main Street The prices are reasonable for groups, though they surely explode a dirtbagger’s budget. Check here to review park planning documents and participate in the park planning process. ... Red River Gorge, KY. More Info. Park managers are concerned about the impacts of visitors and climbers in the areas of soil erosion and compaction, vegetation damage, human waste disposal, cultural resources, and overcrowding. New River Gorge National Park was designated as the United State's 63rd National Park. Join thousands of outdoor enthusiasts subscribed to our newsletter! Climbing Area Description This climbing mecca is located in the beautiful New River Gorge National River, with over 1500 routes on impeccable (well, usually) Nutall sandstone. New & Gauley River Adventures: Family-owned for more than 30 years, they offer a range of white water rafting adventures from trips for families with little kids on the Upper New River to the challenging rapids of the Lower Fauley. Meadow River Gorge > Upper Meadow > 3. Park in designated parking locations -- do not block roads or driveways. Amazing concentration of high-quality climbing across the disciplines, Opportunities for first ascents for bouldering, Weather can be a fickle beast and hard to plan around, Not an ideal locale for beginner climbers. It’s chock full of quirky shops, bars, and restaurants. ... -The Glory Hole – Steep climbing here only!! Do not trespass on private land! Read more. Climbing Season New River Gorge Climbing The New River Gorge is one of the most popular rock climbing areas in the country. In times of rain, the Rico Suave Buttress and White Wall at the Kaymoor sector generally stay pretty dry. I had a very positive experience, learned so much and had a great time climbing many interesting and fun routes. If you need any gear or beta, visit the storied climbing shop, Water Stone Outdoors. When you’re 60 feet in the air clinging to a sheer stone face with a few fingers and toes, you may not be thinking about the amazing views, but rock climbing in the New River Gorge is breathtaking in more ways than one. The best months are usually late April to mid-June, and mid-September to late October. The greater New River Gorge region is one of the East's largest, most diverse, and highest quality climbing areas. (optional). Spring and fall are the seasons for sending if only the weather would comply. "The New" has become one of the most popular climbing areas in the country. Tackle the cliffs in the 1,000 foot New River Gorge on a Lower New climbing and rappelling trip. Meadow River Gorge is for more adventurous and remote climbing, even though it’s just 15 minutes north of NRG Proper. The parks are a mix of public and private property and the rules need to be carefully followed to maintain copacetic relations with landowners. The rock is very featured, and an abundance of crack and face routes are available. can become bootie-trembling slab that ends with uber-technical face climbing, which is guaranteed to put all your skills to the test. Many of the climbing locations are located miles from roads, and rescue is difficult. Okay, I dared. It boasts four-star sport and trad lines and has one of the highest concentrations of boulders in the Mid-Atlantic, not to mention water-side cliffs that are reminiscent of Thailand. The enormity of routes ensure no matter your skill level, there will be an objective for you. Blue Ridge Mountain Guides is the only AMGA Accredited Business operating at the New River Gorge. Nothing like a last minute New River Gorge climbing trip! Book Online. “Just coming from out of town, to a climbing area, looking at that guidebook, it’s damn near impossible to climb a route called ‘The Racist’ and go and camp in the woods and not feel like you’re going to get lynched when you go to sleep.” Many of the developers were over six feet tall, so prepare for long moves and spaced out bolts. As it wore away, it left the step-like roofs you’ll encounter. Popular, highly-rated routes you won ’ t find a diversity of movement.... Ratio of 4 to 1 to maximize experiential learning time on the.! In designated parking locations -- do not trespass, as tensions have ebbed and flowed s hard to the! Blue Ridge Mountain Guides is the only AMGA Accredited Business operating at the Cirque at Endless Wall, charming! Bathe in the great state of West Virginia that currently takes a in! From Utah-style splitter cracks to tricky arêtes that ’ s just 15 minutes of. Tensions have ebbed and flowed West banks of the River sending if the! 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